Holidays and outings are something we all anticipate with great excitement. Regardless of age, there will always be that eagerness to go on a journey and experience new worlds. Fortunately, I have been very lucky to go to various places, where people have never been to and may never go in their lives. These places have a special status in my heart and they create memories that I will always look back upon. My trip to Iraq was one of those places.
We went to a multitude of places in Iraq, such as Baghdad, Karbala, and Samarra, however, I will be focusing on Najaf Al-Ashraf, southwest of Baghdad, the capital of Iraq.
In Najaf, an incredibly famous personality is buried, whom millions of people per year come to visit. It is worth noting, that Prophet Adam and Noah are also said to be buried here according to Islamic tradition. His name was Ali ibn Abi Talib, the first convert to Islam (after the Prophet Muhammad) and he is widely recognised as the 4th political caliph of Islam after the Prophet passed away, and he was the first Imam of the Shia sect of Islam (Imam is a title we use to show respect). He was the first cousin and son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad. Nobody could defeat him in one-on-one battles, he was one of the fiercest and bravest warriors. He was martyred after being struck by a poisonous sword to the head while praying by one of his enemies.
He wasn’t just an expert on the battlefield, he also gave lectures on the pulpit and these 240 sermons were compiled into a book called “Nahj Al-Balagha” which translates to ‘The Peak of Eloquence’.
Given Ali ibn Abi Talib’s level of piousness, spirituality, proximity to God and the Prophet of Islam, the Shia Muslims hold him in the utmost regard. Due to his piety and spiritual perfection, God has honoured him with a special ability to act as a medium between the common person and God to seek alleviation of trials and tribulations in their lives and fulfilment of legitimate desires. This is one of the many benefits Muslims receive for the visitation to his shrine. It’s important to note, Muslims do not visit to worship Ali ibn Abi Talib, but to take lessons from his life so that we can be better humans and Muslims.
As we walked towards the perimeter of the shrine, all visitors were obliged to remove their shoes, as it is considered disrespectful if you enter with shoes on. We put our shoes in the locker, and went through security. We read a special supplication called “إِذن الدخول” meaning “permission to enter.” I pondered on this for a moment; why not just walk in? I discussed this with my father, and he explained that it is like going to someone’s house as a guest: you would not turn up outside someone’s house and just barge in through the door. There is etiquette that needs to be adhered to, like ringing a bell, greeting the host, and being invited in. Listening and reflecting why one had to read this, using this example made it so clear on the importance of this out of respect even though he is no longer living. I saw it as a sign of respect and honour for Imam Ali.
After reading the entry supplication, we kissed the door to our side, and walked in.
After getting past, I was at once welcomed by a massive shrine decorated with gold across it. You can’t help but notice one large central dome which stands out of a square-shaped ornate structure at the two sides of which are two minarets. Upon seeing such opulence on the exterior, I could not help but wonder how the inside would be adorned.
While I slowly and purposefully entered inside, I was truly mesmerised by the millions of mirrored glass glistening with mosaic inlaid. I’ve visited castles before, but never have I ever seen splendour of this magnitude and beauty. This place truly felt like it was built for the King of Kings. As I continued to look around, I noticed marble covering the floor and a gigantic radiating chandelier hanging over the grave of Imam Ali.
In this shrine, people come with all their wishes and desires, seeking love, connection, and intercession. Tens of millions ask through him to ask God to fulfil their wishes, in the hope that they will be accepted. Knowing this, gave me an immense feeling of peace that I was in a place where all my legitimate desires have the power to be fulfilled. I truly felt blessed to be here.
Finally, I got some time to myself. My dad told me as we were walking in, that anything you can’t disclose to anyone, you can say to him. Our belief is that these holy personalities were closer to God than we will ever be, due to their level of spiritual perfection, meaning that your prayers will be more likely to be accepted.
We found a spot in the inner part of the shrine next to the grave, my dad, my brother, and I thought to ourselves about what we could say.
It’s a custom that when you go on pilgrimage to pay respects to these personalities, you pray for others, that they can go and that they can have their wishes fulfilled too. So, I asked for everyone who asked me to pray for them, and everyone who didn’t ask me because they were too embarrassed or for other reasons.
I felt positive and powerful when his title came into my mind that he is known as the Lion of God, through this I felt a tingling and magical feeling, which made me forget about all life’s worries.
Sitting by the Shrine of Imam Ali, the feeling I got was out of this world. It felt like home, the most peaceful place, where I could open my heart and thoughts and say whatever bothers me, despite being surrounded by hundreds of strangers. I felt strong, happy, confident, and lighter sharing my inner most thoughts.
After visiting this lovely country, it makes me feel upset that people think horribly about Iraq. There were barely any instances where things felt suspicious. Everyone was very welcoming. Parts of the country were unsafe in the past, but things have changed significantly.
In Iraq, I made new friends and created new memories that I will be able to look back upon for years to come. When I reflect on my journeys in Iraq, I think about how misunderstood it is by the Western world. I would love for the Scottish people to visit Iraq to experience the love, the peace and the generosity of the people, so that they change their perception of what Iraq is like, because of the way the mass media have portrayed it to be, a country riddled with war and terror. I yearn to return soon, and hope that all stereotypes about this spectacular country will be cleared in time.